Sunday, September 30, 2012

Sarcophagus Sunday

The Vatican Museum's were free today for European Heritage Day so after the 9:30am nose bleed Mass I headed right over there.  Sunday's are formal here so I ran back and ditched my suit jacket and headed over to the Museum.  The line to enter started at St. Peter's, so it was something like 10 blocks long.  I made my way past the crowd on a hunch that wearing my collar might help.  I passed a Swiss Guard who stood to attention and saluted me outside the Vatican Palace.  When I arrived I asked one of the fellows how I might get in, he told me to use the exit.  So went through the exit and voila the next attendant waived me through.  At least living in the Vatican counts for something on Sunday at headquarters!  The Museum was mobbed, as you might well imagine.  But it was very nice being there, it closes at 12:30pm however and I arrived about 11am.

You may recall I told you that Porphyry was an purple Egyptian granite reserved for imperial use.  Well here is fine example of a Porphyry Sarcophagus which at one time contained the earthly remains of Christianity's greatest patron, St. Helena, the mother of Constantine (her relics are in St Peters beneath a statue of her behind the Papal Altar).  Actually there are two of these in the Museum, one was Helena's and the other belonged to her granddaughter St. Constantina.  St. Helena's is covered with War stories so it is speculated that it was meant for either her husband or her son, most scholars now believe it was probably made for her Son but she died first and he gave her his noble sarcophagus.

Sarcophagus of St. Helena

Sarcophagus of Constantina, daughter of Constantine the Great
The museum has many wonderful treasures, too many to recount but here is sampling of some of the wonders it preserves for the whole world.  Some people say we should sell all these treasures and feed the poor, a noble gesture but it will only feed them for a day or two. In truth the Church has preserved all of this for everyone and anyone who would like to see these treasures, it is the custodian of human history.  They are on public display not hidden in private collections.

Egyptian collection

Raphael's Ascension

Raphael

Raphael

Medieval Crucifix

Titian, a great painter from Venice

St. Helena by the great painter from Venice, Paolo Veronese

The Taking down from the Cross by Caravaggio

Huge bowl cut from a single block of Porphyry for Nero's Golden House


floor mosaic
 One of the Five Good Emperor's was Hadrian.  He succeeded Trajan who adopted Hadrian assuring a peaceful transition as the next Emperor.  He scaled back the empire to better manage it and avoid wars.  His reign was marked by great peace and prosperity.  He traveled widely and was beloved by the his legions because he slept, ate and marched along with them.  He loved all things Greek and was an Architect.  here in Rome two of his great building survive, his mausoleum and the Pantheon.  Though married he had no successor and so adopted Marcus Aurelius among others to succeed him.  Marcus Aurelius would prove a great emperor as well and is also number among the 5 good emperors.  Hadrian also fell in love with a Bithynian Greek named Antinous, the chronicles of the period refer to him as the emperor's "Favorite".  Antinous met an untimely death, he drowned in the Nile in Egypt in 130AD.  Hadrian was so distraught he had Antinous deified, an unprecedented move since the boy was probably a slave of Trajan's.  This was an honor only given to the Emperors.  Hadrian built a city on the Nile where he drowned calling it Antinopolis.  His cult was very popular in the ancient world and many images of him have come down to us from antiquity.  The largest of these is from Hadrian's magnificent Villa in Trivoli.  Hadrian's skill as an architect was proved several years ago when an earthquake struck Italy, many modern building were severely damaged or collapse here in Rome but the Pantheon had not a single hair line crack.
Emperor Hadrian

Egyptian image of Antinous as a priest

Egyptian image of Antinous

Antinous from Hadrian's Villa at Tivoli

bust of Antinous, his hair style tells us he was a slave or at least a common citizen

panel from a sarcophagus with image of chariot races at the Circus Maximus

Papal seal made with Lapis Lazuli

The Emperor Trajan
 Having finished up my jaunt to the Museum, I exited through the Sistine Chapel (named for Pope Sixtus who built it) where photos are not allowed and headed home to make myself a peanut butter and strawberry sandwich and a hazelnut cream filled cornetti with a cappuccino.  Here is nice floor tile that made my stomach growl since I missed Pranzo for the Museum...it was worth it!
Floor mosaic with typical Roman foods, notice the Artichoke (right corner) which are about to come into season here!

1 comment:

  1. Beautiful art, JP...thanks for today's lesson. BTW, where was today's gelato? lol

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