Quattro Fontane

The Four Fountains, these are found on the Via Della Quattro Fontaine, where else?  They are four fountains that bring fresh drinking water into the city and represent the Tiber here in Rome, the Arno in Florence and the goddess Juno and Diana.  They were commissioned by Pope Paul V.  They sit on the four corners of the intersection of the Via Della Fontaine and the Via Del Quirinale, a very busy intersection.  Three of them were done by Fontana (one of the Chief Architects of St. Peter's) who was related to Carlo Maderno (who succeeded Fontana as Chief Architect of St. Peter's) who was related to Borromini.  Remember the English word Nepotism comes from the Italian word Nipote, Nephew!

The Tiber

The Arno

Diana

Juno

 The reason I went there was not to see the fountains but one of the most architecturally interesting Churches in all of Rome.  It was built by Borromini for the Trinitarian Fathers and named for St. Charles Borromeo.  This Church was Borromini's first commission and it was not completed until after his death.  He did the entire project for free as a gift to the Trinitarians.  The site was awkward and difficult but Borromini's genius brought about this very unique Church.  His dome is not round but ovoid to match the peculiar site.  The Church is not terrible large but it is wonderful inside and out.  It sits right on the Street so the exterior curves to meet the site.

Corner shot of S. Carlo Borromeo, Tiber Fountain in the corner

Front of S. Carlo 

Interior ovoid dome

Principle Altar

Now not to be outdone his one time friend, business partner, co-worker at St. Peter's etc., Gian Lorenzo Bernini decided to design a Church just down the block.  Bernini did St. Andrew the Apostle Church.  His son later wrote that in old age Bernini would go to St. Andrew's everyday and sit and take in his own creation.  The Son claimed it was Bernini's favorite of all the buildings he designed.  It sits across the street from the Quirinale Palace, former Papal Residence, now the Presidential Palace of Italy.  Since the Pope's no longer own the place the Swiss guards don't guard it but this fellow does.

Ceremonial Guard Quirinale Palace

Bernini's S. Andrew the Apostle Church

Bernini's ovoid dome

 It is hard to make out in the above photo but at the top where the dome meets the Lantern, Bernini got a little playful, there are these three little putti angels that are peaking down into the Church from the base of the lantern and spilling onto the top of the dome.

Angels peaking out at the visitors

Side Chapel with the tomb of St Stanislaus Kostka

Principle Altar

 After this I went to the Spanish Steps to see the House where Keats died then on to a little shop I read about that is located on the 3rd floor of a building on the Via Belsiana off the Via Condotti, where all the high end stores are located.  They make custom leather goods by special order only and alterations.  The Place is super small called, Armando Rioda Artiganto del Cuoio.  I met the current owner who has been working there for 35 years and one of his lovely workers, who to both her relief and mine was an American.  After an awkward Italian exchange she realized I was an American and said, "Thank goodness you speak English my Italian is terrible".  She was kind enough to show me around and take me into the work room to discuss what they do.  It was fun, the things you can find off the beaten path.

View from the Quirinale Palace Piazza

 After all that excitement and visits to several other Churches I meandered through the side streets until I came into proximity to the Pantheon and ran into another famous Gelato place called "Groms".  They are a chain, sort of Italy's answer to Ben and Jerry's.  So I was compelled to stand in line, the line was literally out the door.  I ordered a Hazelnut and well was so excited I only took the picture when the cup was empty...Sorry guys...but it was delicious!  A short walk further along were the highly acclaimed Della Palma and San Crispino Gelateria's.  Well I have had Della Palma before but not San Crispino so now there is another reason to go back!!  There is also a very fine chocolate place called Margiodo and Gariglo that I made a pitstop at when I began this journey but the prices were crazy, 4 chocolates the size of a dime will set you back $11, so I just admired them.  Gelato is so much more reasonable, a small is 2.50 Euro, about $3.25.

Grom Gelato

Yummy!!!