John's Janiculum Jaunt: Pace e Bene

Peace and Good, this is a traditional Assisi greeting or salutation, it is the Italian of the Latin 'Pax et Bonum', which St. Francis used to greet people. Peace and Good, that is what Assisi was, is and I hope always will be, it a slice of heaven on earth.

On this last day on the mountain we had Mass at the Basilica of St. Francis right there at his tomb with the four founders tombs surrounding him. It was richly spiritual. As our retreat director noted it is one of the holiest places on earth and one of the most popular of pilgrimages. The Mass was at 9am so the poor folks who showed up on the tour buses has to look in from the back of the Chapel. Towards the end of the Mass the natives were restless and when we started the final hymn they broke ranks and flooded forward eager to pay their homage and ask for the intercession of the Poverello.

The retreat director told a story about St. Francis that was wonderful for the start of this Year of Faith. St. Francis was walking when he came upon a beggar who was weeping profusely. Francis bent down to comfort the beggar and asked him why he was so dejected, depressed and weeping. The beggar replied, "Love is not loved by it's beloved". With that the beggar vanished and Francis understood the message Jesus, disguised as the beggar, was giving to the world. We must all strive to love God who loves us.

After the Mass (and a bit of shopping) I made the pilgrimage to the Church of San Damiano. Francis had a vision of Jesus who told him, "Go rebuild my house which is in ruins". Francis thought he meant the decrepit parish Church of San Damiano and he began to rebuild it in exchange for a place to sleep. So even the Saints sometimes miss what God wants! God wanted him to rebuild the Church, also a good message for us in the Year of Faith!

The Church eventually became the Convent of the Poor Clare's until they moved to the safety, at the request of the citizens of Assisi, of the walls of the City. It then reverted back to the Friars who maintain it today. When I visited there almost 30 years ago it was steep, very steep, climb down on crushed rock and you basically slid down the path. Today the path is paved, though still very very steep and you walk through olive groves.

If you look to the left of the building you will see the faint outline of a small Church, the area with the round window, door and small window, this is the original Church of San Damiano, it was later added onto.

San Damino

This is a Statue of St. Francis outside at the base of the stone ramp that takes you to the Piazza.

St. Francis

This is the monastic enclosure of the Poor Clare's, this was their cloister in the time of St. Clare. You can see the well in the center from which they received water.